The opportunity favours the prepared, so every sneaker and hoodie guy will occasionally need to suit up. Having a superb pair of quality dress shoes is not a luxury it's a necessity! If you still haven't got your perfect pair, now is the right time to do it. The following guide might give you a hand in making an informed decision.
Style Range
Level up your dress game with premium guys' dress shoes. This elegant shoe style has gone a long way in terms of quality and appearance over time. Nowadays, there is a vast array of options available, however, some styles are better than others and go with everything and anything in your wardrobe regardless of the occasion and level of formality.
Oxfords
Oxfords originated in Scotland and are frequently referred to as "Balmorals" after Balmoral Castle. What distinguishes them from any other pair of man's dress shoes is its vamp, a low heel, and a Goodyear-welt construction. In Oxfords, the "facing", where the eyelets are located, is sewn under the vamp. A closed lace creates a more streamlined appearance, so a good pair of black plain-toe Oxfords is your go-to dress shoe. For an added touch of refinement, get them in patent leather. Choose a cap toe and you'll be at ease in any boardroom.
Derby
Sometimes called bluchers, especially in the US by New England preppies who grew up wearing a particular LL Bean model, derby shoes have open lace-up facing exposed at the bottom, giving them a stronger and more adaptable feel. They are available in a variety of colours, including cognac and oxblood, as well as other reds and browns, and may be paired with a suit, jeans, or chinos. If you like a more classic look, choose trousers and a sports jacket.
Brogue
If we were truly picking holes - literally in this case - we would claim that "brogue" refers to a detail: the perforations used to drain water from our Gaelic ancestors' feet when travelling swampy terrains. A brogue, whether in Oxford or Derby design, is essentially a shoe in and of itself. Wingtips are brogues with a decorative design on the extended toecap. Cap toes are brogues with a plain toe; however they often have perforations along the cap edge. Depending on your level of comfort, consider box calf leather, suede, or Scotch grain.
Monk Strap
Single monk straps are more subtle and classic, whereas double monk straps have a military feel and are typically built with a toecap. Although the style dates back centuries to monks looking for an alternative to the sandal, these guys’ dress shoes are popular among style enthusiasts looking for something unique.
Construction
A welt is a strip of leather stitched to a shoe's upper and insole that goes around the perimeter of the outsole and acts as an attachment point for the soles. A cork (or other porous material) stuffing allows the shoe to breathe and conform to the shape of your foot. Goodyear-welted shoes require some time to break in, but keep in mind that patience pays off.
Used commonly in the Italian shoe industry, Blake stitched shoes have an upper directly stitched to the sole, resulting in lighter shoes both in appearance and weight, with greater flexibility.
The Norwegian welt is the method of attaching a shoe's sole to its upper. It was invented in Scandinavia and provides waterproofness and sturdiness by adding a second stitching. The upper is turned outwards rather than folded under the insole, allowing the welt to be flush with the sole and upper, resulting in an arguably greater aesthetic appearance for boots and country footwear. It has a durable and sturdy construction.
Leather
Previously, super-shiny patent leather was only worn with tuxedos. However, as the lines between formal and casual blur, we are just as likely to see patent shoes on the street as at a ball. Linseed oil lacquer was historically used for the permanent finish, although synthetic coatings are becoming more frequent. Keeping patent leather shoes for special occasions is an excellent idea, if only because they crease quickly.
The most durable part of an animal's hide is right below the hair, where full grain is acquired. A pair of full-grain men dress shoes is moisture resistant, flexible, and develops a pleasing patina with wear.
Top-grain leather, which resembles full-grain, is the second most durable. The "split" layer has been separated, and the remaining surface has been sanded and cleaned to eliminate any defects.
The nubby braille-esque pattern on leather is full-grain leather embossed with heavy rollers or a pebble-grain plate, a technique commonly used on second or third-quality hides. It can give intrigue to less formal shoes like loafers or Derbies and looks great with tweed.